This page is all about how to optimise your print settings to get the best result out of your 3D printer when printing our designs. We will add to this page over time as we come across new tips and tricks.
General Assumptions
In general, you can make the following assumptions about our parts, although there might be the odd edge case here or there:
- Support-free where possible (90% of our models do not require supports on FDM printers)
- Oriented for optimal printing – no need to rotate the parts, they are already oriented for optimal printing
- Optimised 0.15 mm layer height or less – If you have a Prusa or other printer with a .05 mm step size, this will print great at 150 microns. If you have an Ender or similar .04 mm step size printer, 0.16 mm might print fine, but you might lose some finer details, consider printing at 0.12 mm (120 microns)
- We use the OpenLOCK system to connect parts of our ships together without using glue. We have made a variety of variant clips for special circumstances, especially for adding hinges, attachments for fighters, and certain hull pieces on our ships, particularly
Starships and Tiles
Our starships are designed and optimised for FDM printing at 0.15 mm layer height (150 microns). While you can print on SLA/DLP liquid resin machines, we do not offer direct support for these printers. You are free to enquire on our Discord where the community may be able to support your needs.
Moving forward, we are trying to be more SLA friendly, but still predominantly support FDM printing due to the fractional cost of PLA vs. liquid resins (costing 2.5-3 times as much as PLA). Some of our largest ships can be so large that it would be more cost effective to buy an entry level FDM printer and PLA for the same price as the resin would cost.
Troubleshooting
- Adhesion issues – we recommend using 3DLAC on a heated print bed for optimal adhesion, we do not print using rafts or brims.
- Semiotics (built in symbols on walls and floor panels) require some special settings to print properly, namely the use of XY Compensation (under the advanced tab in Prusaslicer). A setting of 0.07 should give the optimal results. However, it is important to note that
- Print in place hinges conversely require that you have XY Compensation off/set to 0. The compensation will fill in the gaps and give a solid result. This applies to hinge clips and PDC parts from the Sleipnir series.
- OpenLOCK Supports – Older models have OpenLOCK supports built into the bases. These are removed using needle nose pliers or other tools after the fact. Moving forward, we are getting rid of these supports, as modern printers do not need them, and they are hard to remove on resin prints. To remove the supports, see this guide.
- Support Rods – Some ships, such as the Beta Centauri, Type S Scout, and Type A Free Trader Beowulf have channels for inserting 6 mm aluminium or brass model aircraft rods. We use K&S-Metall 969824 rods and cut to size (mark after putting them in place, remove than cut to size). These add needed stability for heavier ships. Support rods are always optional, but without them, you may want to glue clips for added stability.
Figures
Our 28mm figures are designed for SLA/DLP liquid resin 3D printers. Most are provided with an option to use the built in supports for a trouble free print. They can be printed on FDM printers by orienting them backwards at a 45 degree angle and using automatic supports from the build plate. They are not designed to print support free.
